fomapan 400 vs hp5

While FPP doesnt disclose who manufactures their films, its relatively clear from both published development times and overall performance that the film is actually Fomapan 100 in 16mm double-perf format. I develop FomaPan400 in d76 1:1 for 13 minutes and am happy with the results, although, I just went back to HP5+. You can see the loss of highlight at the top of the frame, but there are more shades of grey that are maintained. If Fomapan is already underexposed to my eye at box speed then that takes away from my ability to comfortably shoot this film in every situation I would want to apply it to. Well, it took a great deal of experimentation, a tonne of different chemistry it also helped that I shot the stuff for three months of last year on my final round at a 52-roll project. du hast freie Wahl: - mit Rodinal 1+50 fr gute Empfindlichkeitsausnutzung bis 640 ASA, Schrfe und normale Kontraste, (aber mitunter lange Entwicklugszeiten, die beim Agfakipprhythmus anstrengend werden), - mit Rodinal 1+100 fr hnlich gute Ergebnisse bei weiger Bewegungsarbeit fr den Arm in der (semi-)Standentwicklungund sparsamerer Ausnutzung der chemie, - mit Atomal49 fr schne Grauwerte aber nur bis 320 ASA und etwas weniger scharf, dafr weicheres Korn, - mit D76 fr Nennempfindlichkeit und etwas krzere Entwicklugnszeiten, - mit Rodinal 1+25 um den 60er-Jahre Zeitungsfoto-vintagelook mit ordentlich Korn und knackigen Kontrasten wiederzubeleben. Ill meter Fomapan 400 for the shadows when I think theres maybe a three-four stop difference between shadow and highlight, any higher and Ill expose slightly further up. The look of Kentemere reminds me of those surveillance films, or JHC400, so maybe that would be the most direct comparison. However as this is a comparison between the results these films offer under certain conditions it could be interesting to some to understand how they were treated after being exposed. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Again, it is actually a 100 film and not a 200, but I like it better but it is not close to being in the same league as Kodak films by any stretch of the imagination. Upload or insert images from URL. Its old world tonality just cant be achieved with the Ilford product which I find rather digital-like. (meine Frau sagt ja, das sei alles nur Voodoo und dass man das mit dem Kippen auch getrost bleiben lassen oder komplett bertreiben kann. Glad you found it useful! [], [] of a film camera as well as film itself, and this meant that my results were not ideal. These are nice, there is something about the crappy anti halation layer film when you pull it and blow the highlights a bit, it turns the glowiness up to 11.How do you prevent scratches, Simon? This article started as a write up about my time shooting these two emulsions over a long bank holiday weekend, where I had similar lighting conditions and was able to shoot similar exposures across both Fomapan and Kentmere rolls. because theyre reliable and inexpensive. Thanks Peter!I deliberately chose frames with similar tones so it would be a bit trickier.The one of the left is the Fomapan. Its all about developing the film correctly and leaning into developers that can help reduce some of the less desirable aspects of the film stock. Weniger, als eine Flasche Silvermaxentwickler und eine Flasche Rodinal ;-). However I think because of the grain structure I often perceive the Fomapan to have a little bit of an edge in sharpness. Now that Im retired, I like instant gratification slip into the darkroom whenever I need to process filmpour, dilute, temp check, time/temp compensate and process. Fibonawak 8 mo. This post was inspired by another I made back in the early days of my website, a post from October 2017 titled Kentmere 400 | Budget B&W Film. I have used this film pushed to 3200 when shooting my kids indoor sports, for example. Is that the new Jane Bond? Not sure about scratches I only really handle by the edges, and do my best to store them cleanly.Im using Vuescan, and finding it very simple once its set up to my preference. Tri-X at 320 is a wonderful look but one roll at 35mm is twice the price of Fomapan, sometimes even more than half! Thanks again for another informative article. I disagree that Fomapan 400 is garbage, but it is very different to HP5+. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. All photographs and text appearing on 35mmc.com are the exclusive property of the named author (except where stated otherwise) and are protected by copyright. However I think there are some quite distinguished features to the grains of these films that should remain constant regardless of the technique used. Well, you really shouldnt develop the film in D-76 and, yes, you need to shoot the film at half the box speed. Very different animals. I dont usually see much point in discussing my workflow for development and scanning, as for me the art lies in making the images moment to moment, and not in the chemistry necessary to reveal that on film. The high contrast results really lent a wonderful aesthetic to those images, and Im glad I didnt choose to take Kentmere. Some great shots here, but the man smoking in the bus is just terrific. So what does this mean to you as a photographer? Since that time Ive come a long way with my film development techniques, the capability of my scanning equipment, the digital workflow I use to scan negatives, and my overall knowledge of photography. Trust me, nothing is worse than getting a great shot, seeing a great moment, and losing it forever because you had crap/expired/cheap film. HP5 habe ich unter diesem Handelsnamen nie verwendet, aber als Kentmere400 wird wohl eine recht hnliche Emulsion angeboten. Ive never had an issue with a frame of film being too soft as a result of anything other than user error in terms of mis-focusing it. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Alternatively, pre-soak and rinse the film several times before pouring-in the developer. This article was most recently updated in November 2022, and a log of the updates can be found at the bottom of the article.). If excessive grain is not disturbing you for the Fomapan 400 you can go for Rodinal. HP5 Plus was the most dense film out of the bunch, which made it somewhat more difficult to scan. Film strips (exposure latitude, base clarity) Rollei Yes, in that case you would be cutting into the film speed a bit, but you could still get more of the look you like while shooting the film you prefer. If youre a fan of a particular era of films and love that high-speed crunch and grain that youd find in a 1970s roll of Kodak Tri-X and are okay with a bit of speed loss or an increase of grain plus a bit of soft mush and a mid-to-low contrast than Fomapan 400 might be a film to try. I actually like to leave this option on when scanning 120, but I think its too aggressive for Kentmere and leaves the grain looking chunky. Some people maintain that it has that vintage TriX feel from the 60s. I have been using Kentmere 400 for years now, primarily because its comes in at the cheaper (cheapest?) Ive shot Tri-X before, but my preference is HP5+! Have you tried Bergger pancro 400? So which is the better film? je nach Charge musste mal um ne Minute variiert werden, das wars dann aber auch. Some people love it, some hate it. for When shot with different exposures in mind, in different kinds of conditions, these films can produce quite a few looks. I think the character of these films are the elements that remain consistent through most use cases. I personally enjoy pushing Kentmere and think its forgiving tonal range leads to better images when pushed. There are two ways to experience 35mmc without the adverts: Paid Subscription - 2.99 per month and youll never see an advert again! Learn how your comment data is processed. leider habe ich beim K400 aber in der standentwicklung nie die Wlkchen in den Griff gekriegt- die Entwicklung wurde immer fleckig und ungleichmig, weil ja die Bewegung fehlte. For example a roll of medium format will cost you less than 5$. I am interested in contrast in less than optimal conditions, and the detail were able to pull out of specifically the darker areas of the image. You must log in or register to reply here. It will also mean that I can make a few comparisons to other, higher end 400 speed films, as they fill roughly the same space. I However it absolutely shines as a character film when over exposed I really do believe it to make more sense as a 200/300ish speed as many online similarly claim. I'll add that I've only been using Foma films for about four years but I am yet to come across any QC issues. I think people looking for that aesthetic and willing to be less cavalier with their metering would be happy with the lower cost of Kentmere. Also, Fomapan 400 is a film that shines in certain situations and conditions and if youre looking for a specific look and feel to your black & white images. I tried Foma 400 and to be honest, I am not happy with it. Review | Kentmere 400 vs. Tri-X vs. HP5 Plus. Compare Ilford HP5 Plus vs Arista EDU Ultra 400 vs Foma Fomapan 400 Action Kentmere is the easier and faster film, i have been able to get as good results as HP5+, and i somehow have this feel that the grain is smaller or less visible, may be completely objectively wrong. Again, much of that comes down to personal taste, and what you want from your photographs. Thank you Victor! I got on my high horse and wrote an email to Foma to complain. If Fomas QC were that good, then Id rather have the Foma. Also scanner brand and model name please. Most of my serious stuff I would not use 35mm for. Simon, nice job! These images show how much information is available in these highlights when metered and exposed dead-on, as well as what detail is retained within the shadows and what is lost. I dont think I have as direct an analogy with Fomapan 400, its more of its own thing. I think the example shots in this article demonstrate this well.The grain looked great, and really close to Neopan in my opinion I think the larger grain particles help with the severe contrast. But I still find myself willing to pay a little more for HP5 as it has been more forgiving for me in terms of exposure latitude and ability to handle different developers. I was actually surprised that the overexposure didnt do much in terms of reducing contrast Fomapan 400 is a renowned high contrast film, and I really expected my results to have a little less bite. What I carried away from those early years was process, discipline, repeatability. Rodinal hat die Eigenschaft ber 20C krnig zu werden. https://emulsive.org/reviews/film-review-fomapan-400-arista-edu-ultra-400, https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/7822-REG/B_W_65072240_39mm_Infrared_Dark_Red.html, https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/23077-REG/Hoya_B55RM72_55mm_R72_Infrared_Glass.html. 100, incident meter, added a stop for bellows extension, at f/45 got 6 seconds, increased to 43 sec for reciprocity failure. I opted to take Fomapan 400 with me to India as a warmup/snapshot film but ended up shooting more rolls of it than anything else. Its siblings include Fomapan 100 and Fomapan 200, plus a Retropan 320 film that was introduced just a few years ago. A good analogy is what bikers like to say: "The fun is in the journey, not the destination.". Recently I switched over to DD-X from ID-11. HP5+ is an exemplary film, and definitely worth the extra cost. At $8.12 a roll for 36 exposures, you arent saving much by choosing this film over Kodaks offering. The grain is fairly fine. Enter? Id guess the image on the right is Fomapan and vice versa. Alternativ knnte man auch einen 400er in dem Silvermax- Entwickler mal eintesten. Hvesterlos 1 yr. ago. Kentmere is better in general, more dynamic range. aber eigentlich wird das nix. Fomapan 400, metered for the wall on the right. It has more highlight bleed and halation than Kentmere, but this is rarely overwhelming in the way it may be on something like Cinestill 800t. 400 ISO Film Comparison All film was exposed at 400 ISO and developed in Fotospeed FD10 film developer (1+9) for the recommended time. Pitch black shadows, and massive grain, similar to tri-x. All I know is I was researching cheap 100 rolls and came upon this link. Press?? Die wild unverpackten Recycle Filme mchte ich ebenso wenig benutzen. Just out of curiosity, which developer/dilution did you use to process the film? Ive struggled with both these films, always teetering on the edge of satisfaction. I do keep a bottle of Rodinal on hand for slower films (Ferrania P30 or Across 100) but DD-X is my go-to for everything else. If I wanted that I'd use a softar filter. Added additional sample images. These are terrific. The same can be said for HP5 Plus. Its predictable, and has a very classic feeling to it. When it comes to Fomapan film, results and opinions are mixed. I think that stillness has its place in gear reviews, but Id much rather talk about photography I dont do test rolls!Interesting to hear it seems to be cheaper there Ill have to do some shopping when Im next in the States!Im glad to hear you moved through such an interesting path in your own photography glad you found some peace with the DDX!Happy shooting! Fomapan 400 is one of those polarising films, either you love it or hate it, and even those who love the film have mixed opinions. Thanks! There are several 5 Frames With articles Ive written here on 35mmc which look at some of the results from these different exposure combinations with Fomapan 400. Kentmere is a low contrast film which leaves you a lot of room to work in the shadows, and turns out great when developed in DD-X. Kentmere is not an easy film to shoot. My negatives always look really dull. Ive found that when scanning, especially if youre using something like an Epson V600, it can be very difficult to recover highlights from Tri-X without throwing off the whole image. Cheers! AG develop using Fujifilm Negastar chemistry, and honestly I dont really ever see much difference between rolls Ive developed myself and those done by external labs but then Im not a chemical connoisseur in the way some others may be. For starters it is a 200 ISO film not a 400 film. Youre working in the profession, and Im a happily retired photo educator. Fantastic review!Thank you for sharing these shots and your thoughts and observations. This means whether my subject is passing through light or shade they will have detail in my frame. Id also highly recommend Kentmere 100, which I didnt test here but still make use of quite often. Especially if Im working at a reenacting event. 35mmc is a blog authored, edited and published by Hamish Gill featuring daily articles submitted by readers. Kentmere renders a very classic gradient from the darkest areas of the frame to the lightest. Deine Erfahrungen beziehen sich vermutlich auf den neuen APX 400. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. Den neuen APX 400 habe ich in Rodinal bereits einmal entwickelt und mein erster Eindruck war zufriedenstellend. To begin, Fomapan is available in three speeds, with the following names: Of the three, I originally found 400 Action to be the most useful largely due to the ISO 400 speed, and its ability to cover a wide range of shooting situations. Both of the images below are lower contrast than anything Id ever print, but as you can see, whilst we still have some detail in the shadows on the Kentmere image, our Fomapan has some pretty fine detail right across the image. end of the spectrum compared to Ilford and Kodak offerings, but also because I think it performs better than its price point. DIE Reportagekombi der 60er und 70er. HP5 habe ich unter diesem Handelsnamen nie verwendet, aber als Kentmere400 wird wohl eine recht hnliche Emulsion angeboten. Especially if Im working at a reenacting event. But the real issue for me is that I am about to try bulk loading for the first time, so there is a possibility that I will lose it all. Really glad you found it useful! Film Comparison: Kentmere 400 Vs Fomapan 400. Honestly, if money is that big an object or is the sole criteria, then just steal TMY2 or TriX. Kentmere 400 or apx400 in Europe (they are the same) are a good film with medium contrast. This really seems to centre around people getting very variable results in different developers, the sense that youll get excessive grain (especially in Rodinol), and that the film doesnt shoot well at box speed. Not being concerned with grain and underexposure, I didnt mind it. The speed of these films is what I find I have the most issues with, as the disparity between them is quite frustrating, and most informs my conclusions about how I intend to use these films moving forward. Sometimes this grittiness fits your subject - Ill often choose Tri-X when shooting at former military bases because of the grain alone. It has lower dynamic range, and must be treated carefully regardless of what its being shot at. My conclusion is that in comparison between two box speed 400 films the Kentmere wins outright. FWIW, I develop at home using HC-110 and Rodinal. Maybe it likes really high contrast scenes to begin with.though in 120 it is a nice film as the grain just isn't so noticeable. The fact that this experimentation was necessary with Fomapan but not with the Kentmere is quite damning in my opinion. I mentioned in the Workflow section that the bulk of work shown was in either DDX or Fujifilm chemistry. for Accessibility for blind people who use screen readers 1 Ilford HP5 Shot through Pentacon Six TL 2 Bergger Pancro 400 Shot through Franka Sollida II. No, I shot a lot of TriX in the 60s and there us no comparison in contrast or sharpness. 1. Clocking in at $5.19 a roll for 36 exposures as of October 2021, this is the lest expensive film I shot for this comparison. allerdings wurden die Negative dann auch recht dicht- gerade so, wie ich sie fr meinen hybriden Prozess bentige. Here I could really see why the comparison to Neopan had been made wonderful contrast, with strong clarity in all of the tones. The Kentmere also shows a little halation, but only when the light is very concentrated and higher than a few stops from what Im exposing for. All our Contributors have an ad-free experience for life.Sign uphere. Having now revisited it with my more advanced skillset Im happy with the look it can offer, and have a better []. Ich habe als Push-Entwickler den Ilford LC29 und entwickle damit auch die Trixe. Thanks Matthias! Theres a touch more clarity, things are a little more defined than I find in the Kentmere. It provides a grittier look than other Kodak films (specifically T-Max 400). I get where you are coming from. Im still not sure about Kentmere 400. Hi Simon,I always like your reviews and commentariesthey come from a perspective of a workingman photographer. I buy all of my film from Analogue Wonderland.if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined'){ez_ad_units.push([[300,250],'35mmc_com-medrectangle-4','ezslot_11',181,'0','0'])};__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-35mmc_com-medrectangle-4-0'); For more articles on 35mmc about the subject matter discussed here, please click one of the following tag links: Contribute to 35mmc for an Ad-Free Experience. Notice the lost detail in both the figure and the highlight of the water. The experiment started by shooting a roll of Kentmere 400 and a roll of Fomapan 400. Bottom line: All three provide very similar results; choose the speed based on your shoot needs, camera capabilities, and environment. And to those who want to shoot it at ASA-400 or even faster, I say go for it! So by exposing for the shadows, youre basically over exposing it 2-3 stops and thus placing the shadows off the toe and onto the linear part of the film curve? Yep, there are many reviews of Foma 400 on the net, and they often say that, shot at box speed and developed as recommended, its grainy, contrasty and lacks shadow detail, which is what pushed film looks like.I shoot a lot of it, all at 200. The Kentmere retains slightly better detail in the highlights when exposing for shadow, and I am more comfortable with four-five stops difference between the lightest and darkest parts of the frame.
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